Accessories are where a wardrobe becomes a point of view. The clothes establish what the wearer is dressed in. The accessories establish what the wearer thinks about dressing. A jacket and trouser combination from any of the major houses communicates the same thing at twenty paces. The scarf, the belt, the bag, the watch, the sunglasses, the shoes: these are the objects that mark the difference between a person who bought clothes and a person who understood them.
The Hierarchy of the Accessory
Not all accessories carry equal weight in an outfit. The hierarchy is roughly: bag, shoes, watch (for men), scarf (for women), belt, sunglasses. Understanding this hierarchy is understanding where to invest first. The buyer who starts at the top and works down is building a wardrobe correctly. The buyer who works at random ends up with exceptional sunglasses and an undistinguished bag.
The Scarf: The Most Versatile Piece in the Wardrobe
A Hermes silk twill scarf in 90cm is the most versatile object in luxury accessories. It can be worn around the neck, tied to a bag, used as a belt, or folded as a pocket square. The print is designed by an artist commissioned specifically for that collection. The silk is heavyweight enough to hold a knot without slipping. The buyer of a Hermes carre should approach the purchase as the purchase of an art object that also functions as an accessory. The print matters. The colourway matters. The combination of the two, in the colourway that complements the existing wardrobe, is the decision that makes the scarf irreplaceable.
The Leather Good: Investment Over Occasion
Small leather goods - cardholders, wallets, coin purses - are the accessories used most often and thought about least. The wallet opened multiple times a day is the object that communicates the buyer's standard without the buyer ever intending to communicate it. A wallet from a house that understands leather will look better in five years than it does today. Bottega Veneta applies the intrecciato weave to small leather goods with the same precision it applies to bags. A Bottega Veneta bifold in woven nappa is the wallet that improves with age and communicates the buyer's standard without announcing a brand name.
The Sunglasses: Frame and Face
The sunglasses are the accessory worn at the highest point of the face, framing the eyes and announcing the shape of the head to the world. The frame shape must suit the face. The lens tint must suit the context. Persol has been making sunglasses in Milan since 1917. The Meflecto system, a flexible temple that bends to the width of the head, is the innovation that makes a Persol more comfortable than most alternatives. The 714 model, originally designed for Marcello Mastroianni, is the folding frame that belongs in a jacket pocket as much as on a face. The correct sunglasses are the ones bought for the face rather than for the season.
For the accessories, leather goods, and pieces referenced here, browse the Women's collection, the Men's collection, and the Accessories collection at The Gray Crab.
